Surfing For Beginners

The Pushbike Surfer
4 min readJul 31, 2021

Hello,

Welcome. My name is Max, and I am an avid Sun Dweller.

Today I will teach you about surfing as a beginner in two simple steps! Not the way that you would learn in a typical surf lesson on vacation in Maui. Rather, a mindset to manifest during your earlier days surfing as a beginner.

Photo by Jeremy Bishop on Unsplash

1. Focus On Having Fun!

Surfing, as in many other action sports, is known to have quite an intimidating crowd. This is TRUE in many instances! I see a handful of people let that deter them from getting out in the water.

The best way to navigate an intimidating crowd is to know your water etiquette! Research who has the right of way on a wave, and where to go when someone is coming towards you on a wave. There are many videos and articles on this.

Aside from etiquette, please know that the best equipment is the one you have. From my time working in a surf shop, my peers who have the most fun are the ones who use what they have, a “Competition” leash is not necessary for learning how to stand up on a surfboard. Focusing less on your equipment and more on your presence in the water will lead you in the right direction.

These two points are important but there is one more thing

Finally, don't be hard on yourself, please! Everyone who is a good surfer now was a beginner surfer at some point in their life.

Photo by Casey Horner on Unsplash

2. Be Consistent

I’m commonly asked “How long does it take to become a good surfer?” or “What board will make me really good?” … I have so much to explain. In short, the more float(bigger in size) a board has, the easier it will be for you to paddle, catch waves, and balance.

Having an $800 dollar surfboard doesn't make you more consistent. Having a positive outlook and an unconditional love for surfing will help you wake up at 5:30am to get those early morning waves to yourself. Just thinking about the yellowed streetlights reflecting off the streets through your smeared windshield and the grey backdrop of the sky waiting for the sun to rise gets me excited. That early morning sensation isn’t different with a $200 board than an $800 board.

I started on a smaller board than most beginners these days usually do. I had a 7-foot board, known as a “Mid-length” that my sister left behind when she moved out. It was difficult and I had many days where I was uninspired.

It took me almost a year to become comfortable on that board because I wasn't consistent! I only went once or maybe twice a month, thus, leading me to take almost 6 months to learn my way around the water.

I recently got a girl into surfing who was as determined as the most avid surfers I know! She wouldn't ever second guess an opportunity to hop out in the water and in just a couple of months, she transitioned from the surfboard she bought at Costco to a hard-top fiberglass surfboard! I am so impressed and grateful that I got to see that transition from her finding balance on a cheap surfboard to looking for the best waves around with her new used fiberglass board!

One note: I will say that surfing in a variety of conditions will make aspects of waves on “the perfect day” much easier to surf. This is true no matter what your surfing skill level is.

Conclusion

My words are not the bible of beginner surfers. What is important is that you use these 2 simple steps as a guide and go out in the water and feel good about what you are doing. I don’t remember who told me this, but it stuck with me “You are doing more than the person sitting on the couch at home.” You have to take the action and with action brings unforgettable memories, new friends, and experiences that will stay with you the rest of your life, because you were willing to take your surfing knowledge and ability to another level.

I already commend you! I believe in you!

I wish you all the best in your surfing journey!

Don’t be afraid to ask me questions or tell me what you think about some of the points I made. I am always happy to chat about surfing.

-Max

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